London Fashion
Week has rushed by us at what felt like the speed of light. The jury is out now
on the participating designers’ vision of the spring and summer 2014. Some trends
like bright greens and yellow tones made a predictable return. Everything else
is a bold departure from last spring’s trends and a stark contrast to the autumn
and winter collections dominated by punk and the black and white palette. And yet I cannot get
rid of the déjà vu feeling when I look at the next year’s trends. The wide
trousers, pleated skirts, and floating dresses we have seen it all before. So
instead of the usual runway report I decided to write about Clerkenwell Vintage
Fair, which was a part of the LFW event programme.
The one
constant thing about fashion is change. And there is no better place to
experience it than a vintage fair. This year the organisers pulled an
impressive line up of all times favourites from Victorian Zouave jackets and
hand-made silk kimonos to 60s shift dresses and 90s vintage YSL night gowns.
Walking through the Old Finsbury Town Hall was like traveling through time. The
first thing that greeted visitors on the landing before the entrance to the main
exhibition space was the collection of Victorian corsets and bodices.
The Council
Chamber on the right form the landing was dominated by beginning of 20th
century and British classic brands like Aquascutum, Crombie, Barbour and Burberry
to mention a few. I got chatting to the fair’s long time crony Paulo, one of
the few trades selling men’s vintage. “Vintage Fashion is not immune to fashion
fads. Different periods or eras fall in and out of fashion all the time”-
admitted Paulo. “For example Barbour is going through real renaissance right
now. A few years back Crombie short coats were really in.” When asked what he can
see in his vintage fashion crystal ball Paulo laughed “It’s hard to tell which
way the wind will blow but there are few timeless classics like perfectly
worn in denim and military double
breasted coats, which are your safe bets.”
The Great Hall
housed the biggest part of the fair. Here the order of things didn’t always
follow chronological order but rather created a colourful mosaic of styles. Flappers’
drop-waist dresses swung playfully against glamorous 50s Christian Dior. The
bright colours of the flower power generation blended effortlessly with the
geometric patterns of the 30s. At the Japanese kimono stall I could not resist
the temptation of trying every single item on the display. I’m never quite sure
if vintage kimonos should be classed as clothing or art. I dare to wear the one
kimono I have only as a form of therapy to lift my spirits or boost my
confidence, which I guess borders on a form of fetish.
LFW has always
had the reputation of the slightly more edgier and creative fashion venue. And
including Clerkenwell vintage fair in its events programme certainly proves it.
In the ever-changing world of fashion ironically vintage feels like a breath of
fresh air. The carousel of fashion trends spins ever faster but most of them
are inspired by past. So looking at the current trends in the context of the
vintage fashion really helps better understanding of those trends and how they
may develop in the future.
Nice one Dina
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